Karbala is one of the most important pilgrimage sites of the muslim Shia movement worldwide. This city of modern day Iraq once hosted one of the bloodiest and game changing battles among muslim societies: the infamous Battle of Karbala. Where once was a bloody battlefield many centuries people from all over the world flock in to pay respect to the martyrs who died in order to fight for a question that split muslim societies until today: the rightful successor to the spiritual leadership after the Prophet Mohammad died.
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The Battle Of Karbala
After the sudden death of Prophet Mohammad different movements evolved over the disputed lead of the young yet prospering muslim society. Among the most important movements were the fellowships of Mohammads companion Abu Bakr (known as Sunni) and the one of Mohammads son-in-law Ali (known as Shia).
In 680 AD most of the Muslim world was ruled my the Sunni Dynasty of the Umayyads that were based in Damascus. During that time a Shia opposition evolved under the lead of Mohammads grandson Hussein in modern day Iraq. A bloody war broke out that culminated in the clear loss of Husseins troops at a battlefield that is now Karbala.
Nearly all important figures of the Shia leadership died at that instance which for sure set paths for the future of these movements. Nowadays 80% of all muslims worldwide are Sunni. Only Iraq and Iran hosts a greater number of Shia societies.
Ashura and Arba’in
The fallen leader Hussein as well as his brother Al-Abbas were seen as Martys that died in the battle for the Shia future. After the devastating defeat at the Battle of Karbala a complex for worshipping their sacrifices was erected in what would later become the city of Karbala. Two glorious shrines, one for each brother.
Until today people remember the legacy of what happened in Karbala. The 10th day of the first month of the muslim calendar is called Ashura, one of the most important days for the Shia society. It is even acknowledged as a public holiday in some western countries (e.g. parts of Germany like Bremen).
After a mourning period of 40 days from Ashura pilgrims from all over the world will visit the city of Karbala to get a chance to get close to the shrines of Hussein and Al-Abbas. Many will start their pilgrimage in Najaf, a city that hosts yet another meaningful place of worship: the shrine of the first leader of the Shia movement and son-in-law of Mohammad: Imam Ali.
After paying respect to Ali in Najaf they will walk the 75km long road that leads to Karbala. This pilgrimage is called Arba’in (meaning: 40 in arabic). Up to 20 million people attend this happening every year, making it the largest gathering of people in the world. Bigger than the annual Hajj to Mekka.
How to get to Karbala
From Baghdad
Shared Taxis leave in Baghdad from Alawi Garage📍.
The drive will take about 1h and costs 10.000 IQD (ca. 7€).
From Najaf
The drive will take about 0h45 and costs 3.000 IQD (ca. 2€).
Where to stay in Karbala
There is not much to see in Karbala except for the two shrines that stand next to each other in the city center. Thus it makes sense to stay as close to the shrines as possible. There are a few options directly at the complex with some options giving a great viewpoint from their rooftop terrace like the Noor Al-Zahraa Hotel📍. Haven’t stayed there but enjoyed tea and views from there top level restaurant.
The other and for sure cheaper option would be a few streets further out. I stayed at the Al-Eshaiker Hotel📍. It has clean rooms with good AC and cost 25 USD per night for a double room.
Good to know
The shrines are located inside a fenced off holy area. You will need to pass a security check each time you enter and leave the compound. Backpacks are not permitted and you will need to wear appropriate clothing even if you just want to pass through without entering the shrines themselves.
For the Ladies: you can borrow black chadors for free at the entrance.
Map Of The Best Things To Do
Best Things To Do
1. Visit the Shrines
Obviously the shrines should be on top of your list of activities in Karbala. Both buildings are equally beautiful and boast with a typical design of Shia shrines: shiny mosaics and mirrors all the way. It feels like entering a palace. People come here to pay their respect and even though Karbala has a joyful atmosphere you can really feel the intensity of dedication. It is just amazing to wander amidst groups of friends that loudly chant religious lines like it was the hymn of their favorite football team.
Keep in mind that this place is always busy despite being open to the public all around the clock. That means you will always be lost in crowds, queue up and just passively walk along the endless stream of people. It get’s especially pushy around the tombs of both of the Martyrs. If you suffer from claustrophobia and get nervous in crowds you might want to reconsider entering during the busiest daytime hours.
Good to know
Location: here📍
Cost: free
Opening Hours: all day and night
2. Enjoy the lovely people of Karbala
Visiting an overcrowded place of worship you might expect everybody to just mind their own business in order to pay their respects. But you couldn’t be more wrong. Karbala is a city of kindness and charity. Among the crowds you will see people handing out snacks and cold water to stand the heat – voluntarily during their days off. When you pass by the many shops you will look into smiling faces inviting you to get closer and enjoy a short chat and a free treat from a new friend whose name you don’t know.
In the evening we spot a large queue at a curious spot just outside the shrine of Al-Abbas. Since we were already inside the shrine i was sure this wouldn’t be the entrance. So i asked a passerby what those people are standing in line for. Turns out: every evening some people will cook a free meal for the many pilgrims. Who is sponsoring all of this? Mostly private people!
I would have been interested to get in line as well and live the full Karbala experience. But then some random guy approached us, took our hands and indicated us to follow him. We could only guess what his purpose was since he didn’t speak any english. Follow a stranger in a foreign country is something i would always tell my daughter to avoid at any cost. But this is the middle east, this is Iraq. Hospitality hits different in this part of the world, so we just decide to trust that guy and follow him deep in to the rabbit hole.
We wander through an endless maze of narrow streets – i was already sure to never find my way back to the square on my own. After another and yet another turn we finally arrive at a house. Our new friend leads us to the living room and we are kindly asked to take a seat. What would be happening now was beyond our expectation. People kept serving us dinner course after course. Soup, Stew and whole chicken.
Before we set off after dinner with our bellies stuffed and our minds amazed we rounded off the experience with a very traditional drink: Nabidh.
This is made from fermented dates, but be careful to not let it ferment for too long – it can turn out alcoholic!
3. Daytrip to Ukhaidir Fortress
Just a few kilometers outside of Karbala’s city limits lies the impressive fortress Ukhaidir. It was built during the Abbasid Dynasty in the early times of Islam and has since withstood battles and weather. Its gigantic perimeter walls are second to none in Iraq and it can easily give you that Indiana Jones feeling when you roam through the maze of courtyards, rooms and even cellars of the Fortress.
Unfortunately there is no public transport to reach Ukhaidir Fortress. The only way to visit is to take a taxi. We found a driver that took us to the fort, waited for as long as we needed and even took us a bit further to the ruins of one of the oldest churches in Iraq for less than 50 USD.
Good to know
Location: here📍, about 50km outside of Karbala
Cost: 20.000 IQD incl. the keys to the ruins of the Al Aqiser Church.
Opening Hours: daily 09h00 – 18h00
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